The Beautiful Balkans

Crossing the Adriatic from Italy to Albania marked the start of an entirely new and unfamiliar chapter in our travels.
Unlike other parts of Europe, there’s surprisingly little information from seasoned travellers when it comes to navigating pet travel here—particularly on public transport. With that in mind, we had to remain flexible and make sure we had the means to change our plans quickly if needed.

One unexpected challenge we encountered was the local attitude towards dogs. Many local people appeared uneasy around Yoki—staring, squealing, crossing the road, or approaching her with extreme caution. This was a stark contrast to the enthusiastic affection she received in Italy, or the dog-friendly culture in France where it seems everyone has a pet. Out of respect, we made sure to give people space and allowed them to adjust to her presence in their own time.

When we chatted with some of the locals about it, they explained that many people are wary of dogs due to the high number of strays and concerns about rabies. That said, our experience with stray dogs has been overwhelmingly positive. Most have been calm and peaceful and paid no attention to Yoki at all —apart from one elderly dog in Durrës who was likely blind, possibly had dementia.

Sadly, this general mistrust extended to businesses. While cafes and restaurants usually let us sit outside (which we were grateful for), dogs weren’t typically welcome inside. Grocery shopping took a bit more planning and coordination on our part as dogs simply were not welcome.

Public transport, however, was an entirely different story—one that varied greatly between countries, and which we’ll explore in more detail below.

As the Balkans continue to grow as a tourist destination and lean into western-style hospitality, we made a point of taking Yoki with us wherever possible. We’re hopeful that as tourists travel increases with pets, acceptance will naturally follow.

Adria Ferries: Bari, Italy to Durres, Albania
Pet Cabin: €148 for 12-hour trip in cabin with us (approx. $265 AUD)
Comfort: 2/5⭐ No designated pet relief area, basic ship amenities.
Ease of transfers: 4/5 ⭐

Choose Balkans (private tour/ driver transfers): Durres, Albania to Ulcinj, Montenegro.
Transfer Cost: € 190 approx. 2.5 hrs (approx. $340 AUD)
Comfort: 4/5⭐Basic sedan
Ease of transfers: 5/5 ⭐Great service

Albania

We arrived in Durrës, Albania early in the morning, after an overnight crossing from Bari, Italy aboard an Adria Ferry.
The ferry was a no-frills transport option with basic cabins—comfortable enough for a night's journey, but definitely not in the same league as DFDS or Virtu Ferries in terms of amenities. Yoki was allowed to walk around the ferry’s decks without a muzzle, which we appreciated. However, there was no designated pet relief area; dogs were expected to use the same outdoor decks shared by other passengers. It’s a setup that could certainly benefit from some thoughtful improvement for everyone’s comfort.

Albania marked our first stop in the Balkans—and our first encounter with a very different attitude towards dogs. While we experienced no serious issues, it quickly became clear that dogs are not widely accepted in public spaces here. Locals were often wary, and dogs are not seen in cafés or shops. Out of respect, we took extra care to be considerate, and began carrying Yoki’s portable water dispenser everywhere, as cafés don’t typically offer water bowls for pets.

Interestingly, it was the younger generation—teenagers and small children—who were most likely to engage with Yoki. And that gave us hope. After all, changing attitudes often starts with the next generation.

Public transport proved to be another challenge. Dogs are not allowed on public buses, including intercity routes or border transfers. This meant we couldn’t take the standard transfer from Durrës to our next destination, Ulcinj in Montenegro. Instead, we booked a private transfer through Choose Balkans, which, while not budgeted for, turned out to be a great decision. It was smooth, comfortable, and efficient—a door-to-door service that made the journey far easier than a crowded bus ride ever could have. We’ll definitely be using their services again as we continue through the region.

Pet/vet check requirements to move countries; to transfer to Montenegro, Yoki required another tapeworm treatment, 24 - 120 hours prior to travel, and a certificate from the administering vet. This was incredibly easy and cheap. We took her to Klinikë Veterinare Durrës Pet House without an appointment and walked out 30 minutes later with the documents.

The border crossing; we were not asked for any vet/health check paperwork for Yoki, not sure they even realised she was in the car, but we had everything on hand in readiness.

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